A

 

Acetate

Man-made fibre notable for its silk-like qualities of soft handle and drape, used for linings and pile fabrics.

 

Acrylic

Durable synthetic fibre that contains at least 85% acrylonitrile with inherent softness and warmth; has a wool-like handle and appearance.  Used for long pile fabrics.

 

Alpaca

Alpaca is a name given to the wool of the Peruvian alpaca or a style of fabric originally made from alpaca fibre but now frequently made from a similar type of fibre.

 

Angora

Angora refers to the hair of the Angora rabbit, or the fabric made from Angora rabbit fur. (Fabric made from angora goat is mohair.)

 

Antique Satin

A reversible satin-weave fabric with satin floats on the technical face and surface slubs on the technical back created by using slub-filling yarns. It is usually used with the technical back as the right side for drapery fabrics and often made of a blend of fibres.

 

Aramid

Aramid fibre is a fire-resistant and strong synthetic fibre

 

 

B

 

  

Batik

A method of dyeing fabric where some areas are covered with wax or pastes made of glues or starches to make designs by keeping dyes from penetrating in pattern areas.  Multicoloured and blended effects are obtained by repeating the dyeing process several times, with the initial pattern of wax boiled off and another design applied before dyeing again in a new colour.

 

Bedford Cord

A cord cotton-like fabric with raised ridges in the lengthwise direction. Since the fabric has a high strength and a high durability, it is often used for upholstery and work clothes.

 

Bias

The bias direction of a piece of woven fabric, usually referred to simply as "the bias", is at 45 degrees to its warp and weft threads. Every piece of woven fabric has two biases, perpendicular to each other. As fabric stretches on the bias it is used for binding curved edges, etc.

 

Blend

A Blend is a fabric or yarn made up of more than one type of fibre.

  

Brocade

A figured fabric produced by jacquard or dobby weaving. Main uses; upholstery, draperies, handbags and eveningwear.

 

Buckram

A stiff fabric made by impregnating a light-weight open cloth with adhesive and fillers, which is used to cover, and protect, a book.  Buckram can also be used to stiffen clothes.

 

 

C

 

Calico

Term applied to plain cotton cloths heavier than muslins. A tightly-woven cotton type fabric with an all-over print, usually a small floral pattern on a contrasting background colour.  Common end-uses include dresses, aprons, and quilts.

 

Cambric

A light-weight, closely woven plain cloth.

 

Canvas

A strong, durable, closely woven cotton fabric.

 

Carding

Carding is the processing of brushing raw or washed fibres to prepare them as textiles.

 

Cashmere

Cashmere is wool from the Cashmere goat.

 

Challis

A light-weight, plain weave, soft fabric.

 

Chenille

A soft tufted cord fabric suitable for sofa upholstery and other uses

 

Chambray

A plain woven fabric that can be made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibres, but is most commonly cotton. It incorporates a coloured warp (often blue) and white filling yarns.

 

Chiffon

A very light, sheer, plain weave fabric originally made from silk, now also in man-made fibres.

 

Chintz

A plain-weave fabric, which has been glazed to produce a polished look.  Fabric must be dry-cleaned as the glazing will wash off with machine laundering.  Suitable for drapes and lining.

 

Corduroy

Fabric with raised pile ribs running down length.

 

Cotton

A white vegetable fibre grown in warmer climates in many parts of the world, has been used to produce many types of fabric for hundreds of years.  Cotton fabric feels good against the skin regardless of the temperature or the humidity and is therefore in great demand by the consumer.

 

 

D

 

Damask

Damask is a glossy fabric of silk, wool, linen, cotton, or synthetic fibres, with a pattern formed by weaving. Today, it generally denotes a linen texture richly figured in the weaving with flowers, fruit, forms of animal life, and other types of ornament.

 

Denim

A woven twill fabric.  After weaving it is usually stonewashed in a laundry type machine containing stones.  The fabric can also be washed with different chemicals to create different looks and feels, e.g. with bleach for a light look.  It is hardwearing and practical; it gets softer and the colour fades with age, making the garments more comfortable to wear. 

 

Devore

A semi-sheer fabric with a raised, velvety feel pattern.  It is luxurious and glamorous and often does not need ironing. Devore is created using a paste on a mixed fibre fabric that burns out viscose and cellulose fibres such as cotton, linen etc and leaves other fibres such as polyester and animal fibres, like silk and wool, intact. It is used to best effect on velvet fabric where the viscose is eaten away and the silk backing remains in place to create a raised pattern.

 

 

Double Fullness:
When each of a pair of curtains are the measured width of the window enabling curtains to drape in folds.

 

Double Knit

A weft knit fabric in which two layers of loops are formed that cannot be separated.  A double knit machine, which has two complete sets of needles, is required for this construction.

 

Durability

The durability of a fabric. This is determined by subjecting samples of the fabric to a “Rub Test” (see Martindale Rub Test)

 

 

E

 

Embossing

A process in which fabrics are engraved with the use of heated rollers under pressure to produce a raised design on the fabric surface.

 

Embroidery

An embellishment of a fabric or garment in which coloured threads are sewn on to the fabric to create a design.  Embroidery may be done either by hand

or machine.

 

Eyelets

Eyelets are used in curtain as an alternative to pleats. They are metal rivets that are "punched" into the top of curtains allowing a pole to run though.

 

 

F

 

Faux Fur

Artificial fur made from synthetic material.

 

Faux Leather

A simulated leather.

 

Felt

A non-woven fabric made from wool, hair, or fur, and sometimes in combination with certain manufactured fibres, where the fibres are locked together in a process utilizing heat, moisture, and pressure to form a compact material.  Ideal for most craft projects.

 

Fibre

Fibres are materials that are in continuous filaments or discrete elongated pieces, similar to pieces of thread. Fibres are often used in the manufacture of other materials. They can be spun into filaments, thread, or rope. They can be used as a component of composite materials. They can also be matted into sheets to make products such as paper or felt.

 

Finial

The decorative ends of a curtain pole

 

Flame Retardant

A fabric which is designated as Flame Retardant will have been treated with a coating on the rear surface, or by application of a chemical, to reduce its propensity to burn. Fabrics which are not Flame Retardant can be treated for a small cost to achieve this quality.

 

Flannel

Traditionally this was an all wool fabric, however is can refer to any fabric with a plain or twill weave with a soft handle.

 

Flax

Flax fibre is soft, lustrous and flexible. It is stronger than cotton fibre but less elastic. The best grades are used for linen fabrics such as damasks, lace and sheeting. Coarser grades are used for the manufacturing of twine and rope.

 

Flock

A velvety feel ‘flock’ pattern is glues on top of a base fabric.  A decorative fabric; how it feels depends on what the base fabric is made of.

 

Flocking

The process of depositing many small fibre particles (called flock) onto a surface to give it a velvety coating.

 

Foam / Fibre wrap

A layer of foam sandwiched between two layers of hollow fibre, offering the high resilience and low maintenance of foam, but with the additional softer layer of fibre. Used in upholstery for sofas, upholstered chairs etc.

 

 

 

G

 

 

Gingham

A firm, plain-weave, light-weight of nearly square construction woven with dyed yards to form a check.

 

Grain

Straight thread running the length or width of a fabric.

 

 

H

 

Hem

To hem a piece of cloth (in sewing), a garment worker folds up a cut edge, folds it up again, and then sews it down. The process of hemming thus completely encloses the cut edge in cloth, so that it cannot ravel. A hem is also the edge of cloth hemmed in this manner.

 

Herringbone

A variation on the twill weave construction in which the twill is reversed, or broken, at regular intervals, producing a zig-zag effect.

 

Hollowfibre

Fibres which are hollow and, as such, light and warm. The growing popularity of more 'relaxed' sofas and easy chairs has led to an upsurge in the use of hollowfibre in upholstery. Unlike feather interiors, hollowfibre is light and needs less plumping. Hollowfibre also benefits from being hypoallergenic.

 

Houndstooth Check

A variation on the twill weave construction in which a broken check effect is produced by a variation in the pattern of interlacing yarns, utilizing at least two different coloured yarns.

 

 

I 

Interlining

In curtains a soft fluffy fabric placed between the main fabric and the lining to give insulation and fullness to the curtains.

 

Inter-liner

In furniture, an inter-liner is an FR fabric placed between the upholstery and the internal cushions to provide fire resistance in cases where a non FR upholstery fabric has been selected.

 

J

 

Jacquard

Fabric with pattern woven or knitted in (as opposed to printed).  Often used for evening wear.  It is a rich looking fabric with either tonal or contrasting patterns. 

 

Jute

Jute is a long, soft, shiny plant fibre that can be spun into coarse, strong threads. Jute is one of the cheapest natural fibres, and is second only to cotton in amount produced and variety of uses. Jute fibres are composed primarily of the plant materials cellulose and lignin.

 

 

K

 

Khaki

A tan or dusty colored warp face twill, softer and finer than drill. Name derived from East India word meaning "earth colour."  Fabric made of cotton, linen, wool, worsted, or manmade fibres and blends.

 

Knit Fabrics

Fabrics made from only one set of yarns, all running in the same direction.  Some knits have their yarns running along the length of the fabric, while others have their yarns running across the width of the fabric.  Knit fabrics are held together by looping the yarns around each other.  Knitting creates ridges in the resulting fabric. Wales are the ridges that run lengthwise in the fabric; courses run crosswise.

 

L

 

Leatherette

A simulated leather..often made by covering a fabric substrate with a soft PVC plastic layer. Among its main benefits compared to leather is that it is low cost and needs little maintenance.

 

Linen

Linen is a natural plant fibre, linen fibres are stronger and more lustrous than cotton. Depending on the weight linen fabric is appropriate for anything from heirloom sewing to blouses, dresses, trousers, skirts and jackets. It is easy to sew as it does not It is slip and slide and is usually a decent weight. It is extremely cool and comfortable to wear. Linen does crease but washes well and easily.

 

Loom

The Loom is a machine used for weaving fabric.

 

Loome

The best place to buy your fabric.

 

Lycra

A DuPont trademark for its spandex fibre.  Allows movement, and aids shape retention.

 

M

 

Madras

A lightweight plain weave cotton fabric with a striped, plaid, or checked pattern. A true madras will bleed when washed.  This type of fabric is usually imported from India.  End-uses are men's and women's shirts and dresses.

 

Marl

Fabric made from two-colour yarn.

 

Martindale Rub Test

Most fabrics undergo the Martindale Test to check their durability and suitability for various uses, i.e, curtains, domestic furniture, contract furniture. The test is also known as the Rub Test and it tests for abrasion. The test gives a score in 1000's of rubs. Domestic fabrics often have a rating of 20,000 rubs. Generally, the higher the figure the more suitable the fabric for heavy usage. For example some velvets have scores of over 100,000 making them suitable for heavy contract uses in hotels

 

Mercerized Cotton

Mercerization is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread mostly employed to give cotton a lustrous appearance.

 

Melton

A heavyweight, dense, compacted, and tightly woven wool or wool blend fabric used mainly for coats.

 

 

Merino

Merino is the Spanish name for a breed of sheep, and hence applied to a woolen fabric.

 

Microfibre

Microfibre is a term for fibres with strands thinner than one denier. Fabrics made with microfibres are exceptionally soft and hold their shape well.

 

  

Modal

Man-made fibre notable for absorbency and strength retention when wet - usually blended with polyester or cotton.

 

Moiré

A ribbed or corded fabric that has been subjected to heat and heavy pressure by rollers after weaving to give a rippled appearance.

 

Moleskin

A heavy woven fabric with a brushed surface.  Typically used for jackets, jeans and trousers.  It is warm with a soft, velvety feel.

 

Muslin

General term for soft, fine, plain wave or simple leno weave cloths of very light-weight, open construction. Muslin was  introduced to Europe from the Middle East in the 17th century. It was named for the city where it was first made, Mosul in what is now Iraq.

 

 

N

 

Nap

Short fibres on the surface of the fabric, lying in one direction. When using fabric that has a nap, the pieces must be cut so that on the finished article the nap runs in the same direction (usually top to bottom) in every place.

 

Nylon

Man-made fibre notable for its high strength.

 

 

 

P

 

Paisley

A tear-drop shaped, fancy printed pattern, used in dresses, blouses, and men's ties.

 

Panama

A light-weight plain weave fabric.  Ideal for summer suitings and smart trousers.

Care: suits should be dry cleaned and trousers are washable.

 

Panné Velvet

Jersey backed fabric with flat pile.

 

Pile

A surface effect on a fabric formed by tufts or loops of yarn that stand up from the body of the cloth.

 

Piqué

A knitted fabric with a plain back and small, neat, honeycomb design on the front.  It is comfortable and absorbent.  Often used in sportswear, polo tops and shorts.

 

Plaid

From a Scots language word meaning blanket, plaid usually referring to patterned woollen cloth otherwise known as tartan.

 

Plissé

French term meaning pleated; applied to fabrics with a puckered or crinkled effect.

 

Plush

A cut pile fabric, similar to velvet but having a longer and less dense pile laid in one direction.

 

Polyester

A man-made fibre with important characteristics which include good abrasion resistance, permanent pleating and easy care properties of minimum iron and quick drying.

 

 

R

 

Railroaded

A fabric that is railroaded is intended to be used horizontally rather than vertically. As such it will have the pattern running so that it is correct viewed horizontally, and any nap will be across the width so that when the fabric is on its side the nap runs down. Railroaded fabric is useful for wide flat jobs such as wide sofas in certain other cases where one is trying to avoid seams.

 

 

S

  

Sateen

A woven fabric with a semi-matt look.  A strong fabric which can often have added elastane for comfort. The fabric has a soft, smooth hand and a gentle, subtle lustre.  

 

Satin

Warp faced cloth, using satin weave to give a smooth, lustrous surface.

 

Seersucker

Cloth which has interspersed puckered and flat areas of fabric forming striped or check effects.

 

Selvedge

The long, non-fraying edge of a fabric.

 

Serge

A simple twill weave fabric originally made of wool, now sometimes made of other fibres or blends of wool with other fibres.

 

Shot

A term applied to fabrics which change colour with the position of viewing.  This is caused by using warp and weft threads of different colours.

 

Slub

A thick place in a yarn.

 

T

 

Taffeta

A plain weave, closely woven, smooth and crisp fabric with a faint rib.   With a crisp hand, taffeta is typically used for formal wear like gowns and fuller skirts. Underlining prevents some of the wrinkling it has a tendency to have.

 

Terry

A warp pile fabric with the pile in the form of loops.  Main uses: for towelling, beach ropes etc.

 

Triacetate

A man-made fibre chemically similar to acetate; has quick-drying properties and is particularly suitable for garments with pleats.

 

Tweed

A medium to heavy weight, fluffy, woollen, twill weave fabric containing coloured slubbed yarns.  Common end-uses include coats and suits.

 

Twill

A weave characterised by diagonal lines on the cloth.  It comes in a variety of weights for different uses.  It is strong and hardwearing.  Used for jackets, trousers, shirts, dresses and jeans.

 

 

U

 

Upholstery

The craft of attaching fabric, stuffing or cushioning to cover a piece of furniture

 

 

V

 

 

Velour

A heavy pile fabric with pile laid in one direction.  It can be knitted or woven.  Soft and luxurious to the touch. Velour resembles velvet, but has some stretch. Appropriate for tops and sportswear like pants and jackets.

 

Velvet

A cut warp-pile fabric in which the cut ends of the fibres form the surface of the fabric. With a longer pile, velvet is the most luxurious fabric.

 

Velveteen

A cut weft-pile fabric in which the cut ends of the fibres from the surface of the fabric. A cotton or cotton blend fabric with a short, dense pile. It lacks the sheen and drape of velvet.  It is perfect for drapes and home décor.

 

Viscose

A man-made fibre which has good absorbency.  There are a number of special types of viscose fibres which are now marketed as fibres in their own right. The most common type of rayon.

 

Viscose chenille

A fancy pile (raised surface) fabric.  It has a luxurious, velvety feel with lots of drape and a soft sheen.

 

Voile

A light-weight, open-textured, plain weave fabric made from fine yarns. A crisp, lightweight, plain weave cotton-like fabric, similar in appearance to organdy and organza.  It is appropriate for curtains.

 

 

W

 

Warp

Lengthways threads in a fabric. The warp are the threads that run parallel with the selvedge.

 

Weft

Widthways threads in a fabric.

 

Wool

Wool is naturally stain and wrinkle resistant.  It can absorb up to 40% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp.

 

Y

 

Yarn

A continuous strand of textile fibres created when a cluster of individual fibres are twisted together. These long yarns are used to create fabrics, either by knitting or weaving.